Mr. X of wine: He may not be famous but we value his opinions because he obviously loves
wine. This time it's Burgundy.
I've been reading some of your wine reviews, most notably those on red
burgundies of the nineties and I thought you might be interested in my
reflections on a handful of very highly rated Leroy wines as well as
some from Vogue and Dugat-Py.
The wines were all served in Riedel
Crystal at about 60 F. All bought when the wines came out. All stored
at 58 F.
1995 Dugat-Py Mazis Chambertin:
The robe was purple black like that of a
northern Rhone wine. The nose was deep and powerful, a smorgasboard of
asian spices, cassis, and spiced meats. It was so captivating I kept
smelling the wine for about five minutes before I took a sip.
When the
first sip hit the back of my mouth I knew there was something profound
about this wine. While there was still a tightness on the mid palate,
the tannins were satiny and smooth like those in a great Musigny. The
first impression of the flavor profile was essence of dark berries in a
way I had never tasted before, so pure was the extraction of fruit.
This alone would have meritted a score in the upper nineties, but the
finish was even better! For several minutes flavors echoed in my
mouth. Vanilla. Rasberry. Metals. Baking spices. I couldn't believe
it!
I kept savoring this wine for almost four hours as it invited me
to take small sips and revel in the beautiful cascade of flavors that
developed in my mouth afterwards.
Certainly nowhere near its maturity,
touching this wine until 2005 and strictly forbidden, however difficult
this may be considering how fantastic it already is. 98.
1990 Comte de Vogue Musigny Vieilles Vignes:
This wine is already
reviewed on your pages and I agree 100 %. tasted side by side with the
Dugat Py Mazis Chambertin, the two wines were both profound but in
different ways.
The Musigny was the more sublime and refined of the
two, almost heavenly in its brilliance and the purity of its fruit.
Like a sweet vapor it flowed through my mouth, exploding with flavors of
mocha, white chocolate, currants, and earth. While not as long on the
finish or complex as the Dugat-Py, it was strikingly beatiful and
comparing the two wines would almost be as pointless as comparing Monet
to Rembrandt.
There was no sign of tightness on the palate or anything
unpleasant in the finish, suggesting this wine is approaching maturity.
98.
1990 LeRoy Clos de La Roche:
Coming two weeks after the above wines,
this wine came as a dissapointment.
Rated 100 by Parker and projected
by him to be mature in 1996, I have to admit I was underwhelmed.
Nice
blueberry tastes and a very smooth, thick, but understated character
with a warm satiny finish, I was hard pressed to find the 60 second
finish or the smoked duck, oriental spice character claimed by Parker.
This wine was actually outperformed by a recent bottle of 1996 Lignier
Clos de La Roche which had much more character and terroir. Very thick
and syrupy, but ultimately lacking character.
Confirming some of the
whispers in the dark I had heard concerning Leroy's wines tasting like
"nothing in particular". Still nice and drinkable. 93.
1990 LeRoy Chambertin:
This wine just fetched $18,000 US a case at
Christies and was also rated perfect by Parker.
Ultimately it proved to
be disgusting and I had to pour it down the sink as I was experiencing
double vision after only three glasses.
The wine was not foul, it was
simply awful. It wasn't oxidized, tannic, or immature. It just had
very little nose or finish and tasted like cherry syrup from IHOP more
than anything else.
I guess these ripe weather vintages in Burgundy are
really a double edged sword. 89.
1990 LeRoy Richebourg:
Much more powerful and exotic than the last two
Leroy wines with a stunning, although somewhat unformed nose of
cinnamon, spice, and berries and a feel of incredible warmth in the
mouth like a great cognac.
Yet there was a smell of ethanol and a
disjoint taste of vanilla that was just overdone to the point of
vulgarity. After one glass I gave up for a while as it was quickly
becoming unpleasant.
Eventually I poured it down the sink as a
disgusting character like a 1970s california cabernet had emerged along
with an unpleasant acidity. Another dissapointment.
Perhaps it needs
more time to come together, but given the performance of the very
immature Dugat Py wine, I'll have to slam this so called gem. 91.
1993 LeRoy Chambertin:
Finally a LeRoy wine to live up to the
reputation. Profound smell of brooding black cherries and a dreamy aroma
of cloves and just about everything else this wine hit the table with
quite a bang.
Showing true terroir in revealing the mineral/metal side
of chambertin along with the very delicate ether-like quality it can
attain in the greatest years and a very classy finish loaded with satiny
tannins, meats, and earth.
Parker gave it a 99. I give it a 97.
Still
not as complex or stunning as the Bernard Dugat Wine or as beautiful and
tranquil as the 1990 Vogue, it made up for the 1990 dissapointments.
1996 Dugat-Py Gevrey Chambertin Lavaux St. Jacques:
While not as
profound as his Mazis Chambertin this wine is a bargain at twice the
price.
More complex and deeper than his Charmes (Dugat's Charmes vines
are the youngest he tends) yet perhaps not as satiny, this wine is a
must get for anyone's cellar.
With all the wild berry and asian spice
aromas I've come to expect from his wines along with a profound scent of
cookie dough and something sort of rustic like the smell of a barnyard.
For 100 bucks and tasted side by side with Leroys 1993 Chambertin, this
was the wine I kept coming back to. With much of the earth and mineral
character of the Leroy but more sensuality and hedonism where the Leroy
wine was perhaps more structured and serious. 94.
1993 LeRoy Richebourg:
Another success in this vintage Leroy feels is
her best. Much more elegant and refined than the 1990 with much of the
spice and concentration.
Very warm and satiny with intriguing cigar box
aromas. Still quite closed, but given another five years this wine
could be great. 96.
1995 LeRoy Romane St. Vivant:
What a WIne!
Along with the Dugat-Py
Mazis Chambertin and the Comte de Vogue Musigny (and a 1959 Chambertin I
once had) the most exciting wine I have ever had.
Scents of earth and
mushroom and chocolate filled my senses as I took the first sip. Power
and elegance defined. How could this wine be so powerful but so light
footed?
While the 1990 Leroys were syrupy and heavy and tasted like
nothing in particular this wine was a true kaleidascope of beauty, but
with more of the primal underbrush thing and less of the floral thing
happening.
The finish was highly structured but soft and lingered in my
mouth for minutes, much like the Dugat-Py Mazis.
Incredible ethereal
quaility while still possesing massive weight. How is it possible? A
bit tannic on the finish still. 98.
1993 Clos Veugeot:
sadly, this wine dissapointed as it was filled with
that 1990 syruppy feel and had the smell of pond water.
After a glass I
almost wretched and again this wine, like two other leroys, found its
way down the sink. 86.
1995 Latricieres Chambertin:
Smell of bacon and smoke. Deep fruitiness
to this wine, but again, something syruppy and really quite vulgar.
Could not drink it. 90.
1996 Dugat-Py Mazis Chambertin:
After a few highs but far more lows in
the LeRoy line up I wanted to test myself. perhaps I was the one who
was wrong and I was simply losing my taste for Burgundy.
How could so
many apparently great wines go wrong and end up in the sink?
This wine
reinstated my enthusias for Burgundy with a bang. While still much
tighter than the 1995 I tried, It had a silkiness and depth of fruit
that matched its older sibling along with a flavor profile that was much
more metals and rosemary and blackberries.
With a finish that lasted
almost a minute and demanding I take it in sip by sip, this wine again
blew me away. The aftertaste that lingered on in my mouth for almost an
hour was one of subtle oak with spiced meat.
I felt like I had just
eaten the mexican dish Mole. I think this and the 95 should be consumed
no earlier than 2005. 97.
So, there you have it. Just my impressions. But lets face it, Leroy's
wines all have that over ripeness to them that makes them all taste the
same, apart from a few acceptions.
At several times what Dugat-Py
charges for what I think are the best burgundies made today (along with
the Comte!) I simply think they are not worth it, and are often
disgusting gargoyles of a wine that only a bored critic trying to play
King (queen) maker would promote.
Sad, but true.
After the ten grand I spent on her wines I really wanted them to be
divine. As it was only three of ten Grandes Crus I tried from her are
memorable.
Dugat-Py!
dave